West Africa redux, Day 240

Oh dear. Christi is not feeling at all well. She has rebellious intestines that kept her up most of the night. She swears it wasn't the tajine or olives or dates she ate yesterday, blaming it instead on a dodgy piece of fish she ate in Choum 3 days … [Continue reading]

Essaouira, Morocco, Day 241

A cornucopia of temptation, Essaouira fish market, Morocco, Africa

Our initial plan had been to make the long journey north from Dakhla in Western Sahara to Essaouira in Morocco over two days with an overnight stop in Laayoune. This would therefore avoid another miserable overnight bus trip (Christi and I had … [Continue reading]

Medina, Essaouira, Day 242

Olives for sale, Essaouira medina, Morocco, Africa

  In addition to the wonderful suite Christi and I are enjoying at the Dar Mounia hotel located in the heart of the medina in Essaouira, the US$60 per night room rate comes with a free breakfast. Breakfast is on the rooftop overlooking the medina. … [Continue reading]

Hammams and fishing boats, Essaouira, Day 243

Fishing boat repairs, Essaouira harbor, Morocco, Africa

One of the things to do while in Morocco is to visit a hammam (or Turkish bath).  For 80D (US$10) your body is scrubbed brutally clean. And both Christi and I are in dire need of a deep clean after our adventures in Mauritania. We have sand...well, … [Continue reading]

The Atlantic Coast at Essaouira, Day 244

The Atlantic Coast at Essaouira, Morocco, Africa

  Sadly, the introductory rate on our hotel suite is over, so we're moving to a less glamorous double room (without TV) for 350D (US$45) per night for the remainder of our stay. Don't forget our daily budget for the whole trip is still only … [Continue reading]

Tree-climbing goats, Morocco, Day 245

Tree-climbing goats, near Essaouira, Morocco, Africa

Our original plan today was to take an early morning bus from Essaouira to the town of Smimou, an hour to the south on the road to Agadir. Supposedly Smimou is the center of the tree-climbing goats phenomenon - if you believe in tree-climbing goats … [Continue reading]

Essaouira: fortifications and architecture, Day 246

Northern fortifications (or scala), Essaouira, Morocco, Africa

Sadly, this is our last full day in Essaouira. We have been here for 6 days and a wonderful sense of contentment has set in, which is a serious danger for travelers. Perhaps one of the key elements of traveling in a foreign land is that you are … [Continue reading]

Marrakesh, Morocco, Day 247

Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakesh, Morocco, Africa

Having experienced a transfer of prisoners and rowdy passengers on separate CTM buses between Dakhla and Essaouira, we defect to Supratours for the 3-hour ride to Marrakesh. Unfortunately the leg room aboard this particular Supratours bus is … [Continue reading]

Ali ben Youssef medersa, Marrakesh, Day 248

Ali ben Youssef Medersa, Marrakesh, Morocco, Africa

There's a lot to see in Marrakesh and although Christi and I have now lost the ability to get up early we scuttle through the medina by mid-morning heading north of Djemma el-Fna to a cluster of three tourist attractions. The most impressive of these … [Continue reading]

Saadian tombs, Marrakesh, Day 249

Saadian tombs, Marakesh, Morocco, Africa

Morocco certainly encourages lazy mornings. And who wants to rush when there's fresh croissants , OJ, and coffee and views of Djemaa el-Fna from the hotel's roof-top terrace to linger over. Being a voyeur of Djemaa el-Fna is a lot less intense than … [Continue reading]