In addition to the wonderful suite Christi and I are enjoying at the Dar Mounia hotel located in the heart of the medina in Essaouira, the US$60 per night room rate comes with a free breakfast. Breakfast is on the rooftop overlooking the medina. The freshly brewed coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, and freshly baked croissants are a taste sensation. Spiky sea urchin goop may not be my thing, but I could drink OJ and eat croissants all day. And we have the rooftop to ourselves. I’m not entirely sure if there are other guests in the hotel or perhaps it’s the lateness of the hour (they finish serving breakfast at 10.30 am and we barely made it in time).
We saw bits and pieces of the medina yesterday, but today we poke around in earnest. There are several things that become apparent immediately. First, the medina (yet another world heritage site) is not awash with litter – someone actually goes to the bother of cleaning the streets each night (I like that). Second vehicles are not allowed in the medina. In truth some of the thoroughfares are little more than alleyways so cars wouldn’t even fit, which is why donkey and carts and wheelbarrows abound. Third, picture-taking is not regarded as one of the seven deadly sins, which is also a relief. Fourth, we are surrounded by tourists and as I mentioned yesterday tourists = conveniences. And modern conveniences have been sadly lacking of late. Our hotel has lashings of hot water and we take ridiculously long showers; we watch satellite TV (even if the program isn’t in English); we gaze at the trillions of trinkets and souvenirs for sale in the medina (we have no desire to purchase any of them, but it’s comforting to know they exist); even the pubs show English football and offer full English breakfasts (not very Moroccan, I know, but damned appealing nonetheless). It’s amazing how such simple things can bring a tear to my eye and once again begs the question of whether I’m really cut out for adventure travel, after all.
It’s been my experience that medinas, souqs, and bazaars all have certain things in common. First you will get lost, but in truth that’s half the fun. There’s always a way out of course, just not where you hoped. Second there are many opportunities to spend money (food, souvenirs, clothing etc.). Third the stallholders are all very good salesmen who often speak numerous languages. And fourth it is virtually impossible to leave the medina without buying something; the locals won’t let you! Indeed, Christi buys some sandalwood essence from one of the numerous perfumeries. Is it mere coincidence that Christi is currently re-reading the classic Tom Robbins novel, Jitterbug Perfume?
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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