Fish market, Nouakchott, Day 230

A slightly over-enthusiastic fisherman at the Nouakchott fish market, Mauritania, Africa

I don't know why I'm continually surprised to find an abundance of mosquitoes in these desert environs. Quite whether they are the death-dealing kind, I don't know, but either way I don't like them. The buzz of a single mosquito around my ears sends … [Continue reading]

Ahmed the Finger, Nouakchott, Day 231

Ahmed the Finger, Taureg guide, Mauritania, Africa

We've had occasional e-mail contact with Sheldon Cooper since we went our separate ways in Dakar, so hopefully he and Ahmed the Finger will find their way to our hotel at some point today. Other than another visit to the cheap and cheerful schwarma … [Continue reading]

Terjit oasis, Mauritania, Day 232

Terjit oasis, Mauritania, Africa

Undoubtedly the worst travel day of my entire life.  Read on to learn the gory details. The rooms and the gardens at the Auberge de Caravans are actually quite pleasant, but I had a miserable night there. I'm either being bitten by mosquitoes … [Continue reading]

Old Town Chinguetti, Mauritania, Day 233

Library with ancient Islamic manuscripts, Chinguetti, Mauritania, Africa

One thing you can be sure about when you travel, and especially if like Christi and I you go for long vacations, you always meet someone who is doing a longer or more spectacular trip. It's not that I'm jealous so much as envious. Are these people … [Continue reading]

The Friday mosque of Chinguetti, Day 234

The Friday mosque of Chinguetti, Mauritania, Africa

Christi and I are left to our own devices today - no Sheldon or Ahmed telling us what to do. Our plan is three-fold. Move to better accommodation; explore more of the Old Town, including the Friday mosque of Chinguetti; and take a peek at the Sahara … [Continue reading]

Tanouchert Oasis, Day 235

Ingenuity, Tanouchert oasis, Mauritania, Africa

While Sheldon boldy goes where no nerd has gone before, Christi and I elect to surf the dunes in the Toyota Hilux with Ahmed and Mahmoud. We will all meet tomorrow at the remote (how much more remote can we get?) oasis of Tanouchert. The good news … [Continue reading]

Ben Amira, Mauritania, Day 236

Ben Amira monolith, Mauritania, Africa

Sheldon arrives at Tanouchert oasis mid-morning looking mangier than ever. He says he had fun, walking in the mornings and riding his camel after lunch. He spends all of 15 minutes exploring Tanouchert and suggests we move on to our next destination, … [Continue reading]

Aicha monolith and the Iron Ore train, Day 237

Stone carving, Aicha monolith, Mauritania, Africa

Not surprisingly neither Christi nor I slept particularly well last night as sand constantly blew into our faces. My only escape was to bury myself ever deeper into my sleeping bag.  Sheldon, on the other hand, emerges from his tent quite refreshed, … [Continue reading]

Saharan sandstorm, Day 238

Saharan sandstorm, Mauritanian-Western Sahara border, Africa

Traveling aboard the Iron Ore train at night is painful, literally. We have seat backs, but the upholstered seats themselves have long since been removed. Were it not for Sheldon's blow-up mattress, we could add sore bums to the list of discomforts … [Continue reading]

Dakhla, Western Sahara, Day 239

A profusion of olives, Cafe Al Markaz, Dakhla, Western Sahara, Africa

After two months of intense tour-group travel, Christi and I are finally free. It is quite wonderful. Christi and I get quite ornery when we're forced to travel with other people. We prefer to potter around at our own pace and do our own thing. … [Continue reading]