Christi and I continue the dance between Argentina and Chile today, which begins with a beautiful ride alongside the gorgeous Lago Argentino. It's a 5-hour bus ride from El Calafate south along route 40 before dipping across the border near Puerto Natales. Border formalities remain tedious and confusing. Exiting Argentina – exiting most countries (Israel being a notable exception) – is … [Read more...]
Puerto Natales, Chile, Day 96
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The start of our fourth month on the road. Christi and I begin it in easy fashion with a rest day, barely making the last call for breakfast before undertaking a brief exploration of Puerto Natales. The waterfront overlooks Ultima Esperanza Sound (Last Hope Sound) snow-capped Andean peaks, and features a dilapidated pier where pied cormorants sunbathe. It’s quiet and relaxing. There’s … [Read more...]
Lago Grey glacier, Torres del Paine NP, Day 97
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Our plan is to stay at the refugio Paine Grande for 2 nights (which will allow us to explore the Grey Glacier and the French Valley) and 1 night at refugio Chileno (for the sunrise over the Torres del Paine). It’s our take on the classic ‘W’ park trek. It’s a 3-hour bus ride from Puerto Natales to Pudeto in Torres del Paine NP. Here, a catamaran crosses Lago Pehoe to refugio Paine … [Read more...]
French Valley, Torres del Paine NP, Day 98
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Christi and I shuffle around our freezing 6-bed dorm at 7 am trying not to disturb the other, still snoring, occupants as we prepare for our long hike (28 km / 17 miles) to the French Valley and back. We leave the refugio at 8:15 am. The first 2 hours are over relatively flat ground beside Lake Skottsberg to reach the entrance to the French Valley at the Italian campsite. From there, it’s 3 … [Read more...]
Torres del Paine National Park, Day 99
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It’s our turn to relax this morning as other dorm members scramble to prepare for their hikes. The weather is certainly not cooperating, however. It’s snowing and blowing a gale in Torres del Paine National Park. I'm glad I'm not hiking 17 miles today. Indeed, Christi and I have a quiet morning ahead of us as we wait for the first catamaran departure from refugio Paine Grande to the Pudento … [Read more...]
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