Ascencio Valley, Torres del Paine NP, Day 100

One hundred days on the road.  The time has just flown by, mostly because Christi and I have barely stopped to draw breath.  And today is no exception.  Our last hike in the park  is deep into the Ascencio Valley to see the sunrise transmute the cold granite spires of Torres del Paine into awe-inspiring crimson towers.  It’s an unmissable spectacle – at least according to the guide book (and … [Read more...]

Punta Arenas, Day 101

  Our accommodation in Punta Arenas is a sort of granny annex tucked away in Emma’s backyard – behind the laundry drying on the line and beside the woodpile.  The frill fetish aside, the room has a massive bed, cable TV, and plenty of hot water.  The only disconcerting aspect is the print of the Arabian princess on the wall above the bed.  Her dark, smoldering eyes follow you around the room – … [Read more...]

Punta Arenas municipal cemetery, Day 102

Christi and I drop our backpacks among the Samsonite and Louis Vuitton suitcases at the offices of Cruceros Australis and receive our cabin assignment (room 114 on the Patagonia deck).  We can't board the boat till 6 pm, so we kill some time at the Punta Arenas municipal cemetery which is a site to behold.  It’s an elegant city of the dead; an evolving piece of art.  There are enormous mausoleums … [Read more...]

Tierra del Fuego, Cape Horn Cruise, Day 103

During the night we sailed through the Strait of Magellan and entered the Admiralty Fjord.  One of the inlets off this fjord is Ainsworth Bay home to the Marinelli Glacier (part of the massive Darwin Mountain range ice field in Tierra del Fuego).  Feel much better this morning, and after a delicious breakfast, Christi and I amble up to the Sky Lounge on the fourth (Cape Horn) deck in preparation … [Read more...]

Beagle Channel, Cape Horn Cruise, Day 104

With all that was happening yesterday, I forgot to mention that Christi and I still found time to visit the bridge which has an amazing 180o view, making the snow-capped channels look even more spectacular.  Everything on the bridge is automated and spotlessly clean.  Indeed, it takes only one officer and one crewman to steer the ship. At 4 am this morning we temporarily leave the relative … [Read more...]