Puerto Madryn to El Calafate, Day 90

Christi and I covered the 3,500 km (or greater than 2,200 miles) from Salta to Puerto Madryn by bus over four long night trips.  So rather than spend another 20 hours and some 1500 km (932 miles) on a bus to get to our next destination, El Calafate, we’re treating ourselves to a new-fangled invention called the airplane, which promises to convey us there in the brisk time of 90 minutes flat … [Read more...]

El Calafate to El Chalten, Day 91

Christi and I take an early morning bus to El Chalten.  It’s a spectacular 3-hour journey with stunning views of geologic up-faults, glacial lakes, and snow-capped mountains, plus guanacos, ostriches, and even a fox.  On arrival, we stop briefly at the national park offices where we receive an introductory talk on the trekking options.  An example of how quickly the weather changes in this part of … [Read more...]

Laguna de Los Tres hike, Day 92

  With the promise of good weather, Christi and I are up before dawn to catch a ride to El Pilar hostel some 17 km north of town.  The advantage of starting our hike to Laguna de Los Tres here is that it’s now a one-way 19 km trek, rather than a 25 km round trip hike up and back the same trail.  Sunrise over the Fitz Roy Mountains is quite beautiful with sun dappling the peaks in a warm orange … [Read more...]

Laguna Torre hike, Day 93

  I have a little gripe today.  I know it’s utterly ridiculous that someone on a year-long sabbatical dedicated to travel would dare complain, but I can't help it.  The internet has opened up a new world to travelers in terms of sharing information and photographs.  And boy do some of those photos look stunning (it must be enough to drive a professional photographer to drink).  Those iconic … [Read more...]

Perito Moreno Glacier, Day 94

  Hiking in the northern section of Parque Nacional de los Glaciares was a great experience as was Rancho Grande and El Chalten.  Christi and I never did see the top of Cerro Torre though or make it to the base of Cerro Fitz Roy; maybe we'll return one day and try again (and to eat another piece of the most exquisite home-made dulce de leche and nut pie)  There is little opportunity to rest … [Read more...]