Puno sits on the shores of Lake Titicaca at an elevation of 12,500 feet. A short boat ride from town are the Uros Islands. Originally inhabited by the Uros people, this indigenous group has now interbred heavily with the Aymara (both of which were contemporaries of the Inca). The islands themselves are man-made, using totora reeds which grow abundantly around the lake. The islands actually float on Lake Titicaca and have to be anchored to stop them drifting away.
The island we visit is called Chewmi (honestly) and is home to ten families. The island has a very spongy feel to it, which makes balance a little challenging initially; in fact, it’s a bit like standing on a trampoline. Historically, totora reeds were used to construct everything on the island from the huts, to the couches, beds, and even the boats. Modern conveniences are creeping in, however: nylon rope, solar panels for electricity and solid-hulled boats, although the Head Man is proud of his luxurious ‘Mercedes-Benz’ totora reed boat and for a few extra Peruvian soles, we take a quick trip (actually a slow trip) around the nearby islands.
Technically the lake is a national preserve and hence killing the wildlife is illegal, but the Aymara have special permission to fish for trout and hunt for ducks. This raises two interesting questions: how do they cook the food they catch and what is their subsequent bathroom etiquette. Fires are built on a bed of stones (and carefully monitored), while the bathroom is situated on a separate island a hop, skip, and a jump away (the reeds slowly filter the waste material away, apparently). Extra care is advised, though, for that pesky nighttime call of nature and god forbid you have diarrhea or have imbibed to excess!
Back on dry land, I get my first hair-cut of the trip, which is excellent and so are the illuminating calendars that adorn the walls.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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