It’s been a long time since Christi and I have stayed in a hotel as luxurious as the Hilton in Addis Ababa and for the next couple of days we intend to eat, sleep in a deliciously comfortable king-size bed, soak in the bath, swim in the hotel pool, sweat in the hotel sauna, order room service (just because we can) and generally relax ahead of our long trip south into the Omo valley. Unfortunately, that will not make for interesting blog posts and I do aspire to interest and excite you all with tall tales and adventures from the road, so I thought it might be fun to revisit our previous trips to Lalibela (Africa’s Petra [in Jordan]) and Aksum.
Lalibela, Aksum, and Gonder represent the Christian religious north of Ethiopia (about 60% of the country practices Christianity, 33% Islam, and the remainder are animists). In our previous trip, Christi and I completed the Northern Circuit aboard a Dragoman truck. It was one hot and very long and bumpy ride to this isolated community, but cheaper than flying (which is what sane tourists do). The town of Lalibela does not immediately inspire awe, other than for its elevation (over 8,000 feet) and steep roads – a combination which really does your breath away. Dating to the 12th century, the town is rather small with a population of about 15,000 people (most of whom appear to be involved in either the business of religion or tourism, although the lines are a little blurred). What is not in dispute are the magnificent rock-hewn churches of Lalibela (also dating to the 12th century) which now enjoy UNESCO World Heritage status.
Eleven churches have received UNESCO protection, including Biete Medhane Alem (regarded as the largest rock-hewn church in the world and at the time of our visit covered in scaffolding), St. Gabriel’s Church (perhaps the most atmospheric. A tunnel connects the church to a holy bakery), and St. George’s Church (the most visually stunning of all the rock-hewn churches. It is dedicated to St. George, who, in addition to being the patron saint of Ethiopia, is also the patron saint of England). It feels as if we are attempting an assault course as we clamber up and down steep steps and ladders, scramble through darkened tunnels, and dodge animals, tourists, and purveyors of tourist ephemera. It is remarkable how many unique antique crosses are for sale in Lalibela. Either Ethiopia is selling its cultural soul or there are some enterprising silversmiths in town. One cross whose identity is not in question is the 7 kg gold Lalibela Cross found in Biete Medhane Alem. Lost between 1997 and 2001, it eventually turned up in Belgium and was returned ‘no questions asked’. It is believed that this cross actually belonged to King Lalibela who was responsible for the construction of the rock-hewn churches in the 12th century. The Lalibela Cross is one of the country’s most revered national treasures and, better late than never, armed guards are now in attendance when the cross is displayed to the public.
The most astonishing thing about Lalibela is how undeveloped this small isolated town is and how much the churches are just part of the lives of the locals. Indeed, as we exit one group of churches we are literally walking through someone’s backyard. Children are playing, oblivious to the camera-toting tourists in their midst, while sheep and goats graze contentedly and surrounding it all are piles of rubbish and feces. This is authentic, organic tourism before it becomes an industry and I love it – well, except for the pongy poo.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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