Time to say goodbye to Marrakesh – at least for a few days. Mohamed, the manager of Hilali tours introduces Christi and I to Mohamed our driver (26, single, Berber). Day 1 of our brief visit to Southwest Morocco is to drive over the High Atlas Mountains, visit the Valley of roses, and explore Dades Gorge. Mohamed, our driver, will show up the good photo spots, avoid the tourist traps, and stop whenever we ask him. This sounds perfect. The reality is a little more frustrating, however. Mohamed may agree with everything we say, but I don’t think he actually understands what we’re saying. Apparently the phrase ‘English-speaking driver’ is open to interpretation. Mohamed also drives rather quickly so by the time I decide to stop, he is already some distance further on. And while the route up and over the High Atlas via the Tichka Pass is undeniably spectacular, it is also narrow and winding so that parking at a scenic vista is not always possible. Clearly Mohamed is not going to point out the stellar viewpoints. His main goal appears to be to complete the itinerary as described as quickly as possible, rather than show us his country. From our perspective the itinerary is just a guide not a definitive road map.
The High Atlas Mountains are a dramatic combination of fault lines and upheavals that make for an impressive landscape. The mountain sides are steep – a landslide always look imminent – with occasional parcels of cultivated farm land, lush and green against the mountain backdrop of gold, reds, and browns. Dotted among the hills are an abundance of Berber villages clinging tenaciously to the rock faces, while the Berbers themselves are busy growing crops, gathering wild plants, and herding goats and sheep over some seriously steep and rocky terrain. The villages themselves tend to be mud brick structures, any of which have been abandoned leaving behind picturesque ruins. Mosques are commonly salmon pink, standing proud against dull brown backdrops. Despite the harsh conditions, the mountains are a hive of activity and those not engaged in traditional industries ensure there is an inexhaustible supply of tourist trinkets. And there are plenty of tourists to go around: many appear to be on group tours, although there are several French camper van convoys en route. The tourists share the road with pedestrians, herds of goats and sheep, donkey and carts as well as large tankers and trucks bringing vital supplies to the region. This twisting, winding two-lane road through the mountains is the main artery for all communications with Southwest Morocco. It’s a stunning 4-hour drive (through mountains decorated in wild spring flowers) to a lunch stop in the delightfully named Ouarzazate (pronounced ‘Wazazat’). We eat yet more tajine, but its wonderful stuff from an authentic local restaurant not some tourist affair (thank you Mohamed).
Finally reach the Dades gorge near sunset. And much to my surprise it is not the pristine, isolated trekking mecca I had imagined, but rather a valley heavily populated with Berber villages. True, the villages, palmeries, the Dades River and granite rock faces are picturesque, but the whole effect is so different from my Lonely Planet- inspired image. It’s really not that different to any other Berber valley, although the ‘monkey pad’ rock formations are fascinating. We eventually persuade a reluctant Mohamed to go beyond the regulation stop at our hotel (the hotel Tamlalte) to explore more of the gorge, which ends in a dramatic twisting, winding road out of the steep-sided valley. And at sunset, the mountainside turns golden brown, which is a magnificent spectacle to end the first day of our tour.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes
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