Once again Christi and I want to make changes to the program, although this time we want to add something rather than take it out. Having completed the original itinerary in a rather rushed manner, the only thing left to do today is a relatively easy drive back to Marrakesh. But since we’ve hired the car and driver for three full days, we want to utilize that extra time see as much of the area as possible. Mohamed is less enthusiastic about this suggestion and pulls out his mobile phone to call Mohamed the tour operator. Our original itinerary included a visit to the Draa valley, but we only explored the very northern tip. Christi and I decide that with the whole day ahead of us it should be possible to drive the entire length of the Draa valley, finishing in Zagora. The Mohammed’s confer; it will cost an extra 150D (about US$20) for gasoline – so be it. Suddenly, the easy day Mohammed our driver had been expecting will now be much longer.
One point that is not made clear in our Lonely Planet guide-book is that although the distance to Zagora is relatively short, the time it takes to get there is complicated by poor roads, crazy traffic, and mountains – this time Jebel Sahro. Although not as extensive as the High Atlas they are nonetheless very impressive sharing as they do similar geologic features such as dramatic fault lines and deep canyons. Apparently, the Jebel Sahro are also home to all manner of geckos and chameleons – at least according to the Arab wrangler who throws them on me at a view-point and for once I play along.
The Draa valley comes a something of a surprise after the austere mountains. The Life-giving Draa River supports endless lush green palmeries, which in turn harbor Berber villages and their ubiquitous vegetable gardens, against a backdrop of steep mountains. Sadly the clouds of yesterday remain today, dulling the scenery around us. We reach Zagora in time for a late lunch (after first photographing ourselves beside the new ‘Tomboctou 52 jours’ sign). Thereafter it’s a long 6-hour 350 km drive back to Marrakesh. We basically follow the same route in reverse: up the Draa valley, over the Jebel Sarhro and the High Atlas Mountains negotiating the long, slow crawl into the city. In addition we stop several times – mostly because Mohamed is exhausted and occasionally to allow me to photograph the magical scenery. We arrive back at the hotel CTM by 8:30pm. We thank Mohamed for the wonderful excursion, give him a generous tip, and then enjoy a final dinner at one of the temporary restaurants in Djemaa el-Fna. Even though we’ve largely been sat on our butts for the last three days we are so exhausted we sleep like babies.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
Speak Your Mind