Morocco certainly encourages lazy mornings. And who wants to rush when there’s fresh croissants , OJ, and coffee and views of Djemaa el-Fna from the hotel’s roof-top terrace to linger over. Being a voyeur of Djemaa el-Fna is a lot less intense than experiencing it at ground level, although we have to run the gauntlet of sales opportunities, speeding mopeds, and confusing alleyways as we search for the southern troika of tourist destinations: Palais el-Badi, Palais de la Bahia, and the Saadian tombs.
The Palais el-Badi are an impressive collection of ruins – impressive from the perspective of their sheer size which resemble modern skyscrapers. Apparently it was a beautiful palace in its day with a large central pool, landscaped gardens, public audience rooms, private chambers for the Saadian king, Ahmad al-Mansur (who ruled Morocco between 1578-1603) not to mention suites of accommodation for visiting dignitaries. Currently the most impressive aspect are the massive storks’ nests balanced precariously on the walls and towers and the fluffy baby stork chicks that are being raised there.
Near Palais el-Badi (the Incomparable Palace) is the rather more appealing and much better preserved Palais de la Bahia (the Brilliant Palace). Much like yesterdays beautiful geometric patterns at the madersa, the walls, doors, and ceilings of the Palais de la Bahia are richly decorated. The wrought iron filigree, carvings, marbled alcoves, landscaped gardens and courtyards, not to mention the stained glass windows are all exquisite. Palais de la Bahia is actually a collection of separate buildings that were converted into palace in the late nineteenth century by Moroccan architect El Mekki on behalf of the Grand Vizier Ba Ahmed ben Moussa said Hmad (not a name that naturally trips off the tongue). The best workers and artisans in Morocco worked for six years (between 1894-1900) to create this sumptuous palace.
Finding the last of the southern tourist attractions, the Saadian tombs, is darned tricky. You’d think that a major tourist attraction would be well-signposted. Not a bit of it. Instead we rely on detective work. OK we actually follow tour groups who seem to know where they were going. Of course if we were part of a guided tour we would not have these problems – but where’s the fun in that?
The Saadian dynasty ruled Morocco between 1554 and 1659. The most famous king during that period is that man Ahmad al-Mansur again. The marble tombs are intricately carved, but even more incredible are the mausoleums that house the bodies of the Saadian princes. The gilded honeycomb plasterwork, ornately carved pillars and Carrara marble monuments are simple breathtaking. Now why there is a dyed pink cat roaming the grounds is a mystery!
After a long day on the tourist trail we return to Djemma el-Fna in hopes of a quiet dinner, which is of course impossible. And the fact that you may have eaten one meal already does not seem to deter touts from pestering you into their restaurant. The harira soup was good; slightly regret the diced sheep’s head, though. I don’t think we ate the eyes, but then again I don’t recall seeing them on the plate after we finished eating…oh my god…
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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