Night-time boat safari, Itenez River, Day 55

A night-time boat safari at NKMNP is much more productive than the day safaris... Thankfully this morning’s adventure on the river did not involve wrangling poachers, which gave Christi and I more time for animal spotting.  I will tell you that spotting wildlife, let alone photographing it, in the jungles of South America is a lot tougher than on an African safari or in the Galapagos Islands.  … [Read more...]

Giant River Otters, Itenez River, Day 56

Highlight of the day: giant river otters... A full day on the river today and I believe the plan is to follow the Itenez River downstream to its tributary, the Paucerna, and then follow that river upstream until it plummets off the Huanchaca Plateau at the Federico Ahfield and Arco Iris waterfalls (the falls we saw from the air on our flight to Flor de Oro).  Hopefully, Fernando knows when to … [Read more...]

Flor de Oro, Noel Kempff Mercado NP, Day 57

  Flor de Oro, originally a 5-star lodge, but now slowly deteriorating due to lack of maintenance, is cut out of the jungle and critters often wander through looking for food (tasty soursop is an abundant fruit around the place).  During the early morning we spot tarantulas, frogs, and a monitor lizard.  This is our last morning in Noel Kempff Mercado National Park.  A few days is simply not … [Read more...]

Santa Cruz to Sucre, Day 58

This time we leave Santa Cruz from the city’s domestic El Trompillo airport in a comfortingly large and sturdy plane – my favorite.  The flight to Sucre via Cochabamba takes 90 minutes and costs US$43; the bus, by contrast, winds its way tortuously through the mountains for 15 hours and costs US$20.  As much as we like to travel overland, this is seriously no contest.  The flight from Cochabamba … [Read more...]

Cafe Gourmet Mirador, Sucre, Day 59

  Christi and I stroll to the Cafe Gourmet Mirador in the foothills of Cerro Churuquella today for views over the historic colonial center of Sucre.  The views are wonderful as is the freshly squeezed OJ and the chocolates we demolish while we indulge in our decadent lifestyle.  Sucre is just a gem of a city - up there with Cuenca as one of our favorites of the entire trip to date.  On our … [Read more...]