La Paz, our 50th day on the road, and not one I shall remember fondly. My complete and utter failure on Parinacota remains a tremendous disappointment. I suppose that is the nature of mountaineering. It’s an unpredictable business, although I can't help dwelling on what I did wrong and whether Sergio contributed to my failure or whether he acted in my best interests and brought me safely … [Read more...]
Witches Market, La Paz, Day 51
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It feels as if we're becalmed in La Paz, a city that I have not warmed to at all. I’m still maudlin over my recent failure to climb Parinacota. I really thought I'd summit and I’m left to wonder was it me or was it my guide, Sergio? Was I not good enough or did he not care enough? To try and pull me out of my funk, Christi decides to show me around, beginning with the famous Witches Market. … [Read more...]
Plaza Pedro D. Murillo, La Paz, Day 52
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I cannot afford to dwell any longer on past failures because today begins the build up to our next big adventure (there’s no dawdling on this Year of Wonder). But before we finally escape the insidious clutches of La Paz for Santa Cruz, the largest city in Bolivia, we just have time to explore the city’s cathedral in Plaza Pedro D. Murillo. When we finally reach the square, however, it is awash … [Read more...]
Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, Day 53
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Noel Kempff Mercado National Park is an undiscovered gem. It’s not the easiest place to visit or the cheapest, but there will be abundant wildlife and virtually no tourists. Sounds like our kind of place. The southern section of the park is accessible by road, but the northern section can only be reached by air. And as there are no regular flights, Ruta Verde Tours charters a tiny 6-seater … [Read more...]
Itenez River, Day 54
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The Itenez River forms a natural boundary with neighboring Brazil. And while NKMNP is about as remote as it gets in Bolivia, there are villages on the Brazilian side of the river. Fishing is a popular enterprise here and the Brazilian villagers often stray into tributaries and lagoons on the Bolivian side. One of the NKMNP park rangers, Umberto (who is based at Flor de Oro and who doubles as … [Read more...]
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