After enduring uncomfortable temperatures these last few nights, Christi and I found ourselves in the reverse position in the Mole national park motel. The air-conditioning was too effective and we couldn’t figure out how to turn if off so we had to hunker down under our sleeping bags to stay warm. This could only happen to us. We are quite relieved, therefore to exchange the ice fortress for a walking safari under the blistering African sun. It’s quite rare to even be allowed to do a walking safari, because you never know what sneaky, hungry critter is going to pop out of the savannah with the idea of nibbling on your flesh. Our guide, Christopher, is of course armed, but he looks to be carrying a BB gun (air rifle). From a purely defensive position, wouldn’t you think something semi-automatic that could unload a hail of bullets would be more effective against a charging elephant or a pride of lions? Not that I am at all suggesting the wildlife should be killed – only if Christi and I happen to be the slowest runners in our group. As long as we can outrun someone, well then, I’m all for the survival of the fittest. Having said that our tour group makes so much noise as we stumble along that the wildlife has probably already scarpered.
Amazingly, though, we do spot a spitting cobra heading for the hills at full slither, a Woodland Kingfisher, and the exotic, if tiny, red-throated bee-eater, plus some antelope. As we make our way back to the Mole motel we cross a boggy hole via a tree trunk. Christi is a little nervous, but guide Christopher helps her along. Hu-man has a terrible accident, however, falling in and ruining both of her cameras, as they are swamped with dirty, stagnant water.
The Mole motel, it transpires, is situated on an escarpment overlooking a good swathe of the park, including the local watering hole where elephants have recently gathered for a quick pint. In the searing heat of midday sun, therefore, Christopher takes us on another walking safari and we try rather pathetically to creep up on the elephants unannounced. Fortunately the elephants are unfazed by our presence and actually laugh at the BB Gun held by our guide. I think a bullet fired from his gun would simply bounce off the thick, tough hide of these majestic beasts. We actually get remarkably close before a bull flares his ears, a sure sign to back off. Fantastic stuff.
Tonight Christi is cooking together with a rather sanguine and bruised Hu-man. Christi finds the prospect of cooking for such a large group of people under such primitive conditions to be quite stressful. But in the end their sausage casserole is delicious as is the mango we have for dessert.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of broken hearts and broken test tubes.









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