Ironically, Colombia is one of the easiest countries in South America in which to use US-issued credit cards and the only way Christi and I could guarantee a room for 6 nights in Cartagena during the high season was to pay everything in advance. Only…we don’t really like the hotel we chose, Casa Veranera, although its location near San Diego Plaza is perfect. The voyeuristic aspect of the bathroom is disconcerting to the point of provoking locked bowels, while we alternately freeze and fry in the bedroom depending on the way the wind is blowing. We have no idea whether the management of the Casa Veranera will refund us the money we spent and even if they do, we’re not sure what other accommodation is available. It reminds me rather horribly of our time at Playa El Agua on Margarita Island. Still, I take the bull by the horns…and tell Christi to talk to the owner of the hotel! To their credit, the management of Casa Veranera offers us a full refund (including last night) and apologize for not meeting our standards. Have I mentioned that Colombians are simply the nicest people? Of course, Christi and I now feel terrible, but one backward glance at the transparent toilet has us heading for the exit with our backpacks on our shoulders.
We walk to nearby San Diego Plaza, order drinks and snacks at the Zebra Cafe, and contemplate our options. We make a list of idyllic, but cheap accommodation – it’s a short list – and take to the streets. The hotels are either full or have bumped their prices to ridiculous levels because it’s high season. After an hour of fruitless searching our last hope is Casa Quero, which is located…right next door to Casa Veranera! Christi immediately falls in love with the frills, the privacy, the pet toucan (Poco), and the doors! In addition to the lavish refund we received from Casa Veranera and Christi’s ability to sell some family jewels on e-bay at short notice, we negotiate a remarkable rate. It still blows the budget out of the water, but we choose to live in denial. Our room at Casa Quero comes with a massive king-sized bed, reassuringly solid-looking doors, and decor that is elegant, simple, and colonial. The hotel is generally gorgeous with lots of nooks, hammocks, and sofas in which to relax. The rooftop pool has views over the historic center of Cartagena and best of all there appears to be no other guests.
We spend the afternoon wandering around the historic center of Old Town Cartagena. It’s actually much smaller than I had imagined and more touristy than the rest of Colombia. Hawkers try to sell hats, sunglasses, paintings and prints, but quickly move on to other targets when we say no. Unlike Cusco, for example, the hawkers in Cartagena give up easily! We wander aimlessly, peeking into churches, squares, and alleyways. At night the squares are lit up and people come out to play, eat, and drink. It’s carnival time now that the heat has dissipated. We find our way back to San Diego Plaza and hang out there for the evening snacking on street food.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart, a gut-wrenching, heart-wrenching, laugh-wrenching story.
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