In Brazil the Amazon River is fed by two major tributaries. The northern tributary is the Rio Negro and the southern tributary is the Rio Solimoes. Christi and I are chugging gently down the Rio Solimoes aboard the MV Monte Sinai II and it is quite idyllic. Even dinner in Monte’s restaurant last night was surprisingly pleasant. It wasn’t fine dining by any stretch of the imagination, but it was authentic Amazon River food and after all isn’t that the point of travel: to experience the culture of the local people. The even better news is that our stomachs did not rebel so we’ll probably keep eating there.
Christi and I also slept remarkably well. I’m beginning to suspect we may be closet cruise addicts, although I don’t think we’ll be browsing the Royal Caribbean cruise catalog just yet (maybe in 30 years when we can no longer schlep around the world with our backpacks). We wake to find the boat docked in Coari. Much like Tefé, there is frantic dockside activity as goods are loaded and unloaded and people alight and disembark. Then there are the curious voyeurs (ourselves included) who watch from the safety of cabin class while eating a breakfast of crackers and cold sardines. Initially dubious, Christi admitted the fishy tidbits were de-licious.
Unfortunately the rain that began last night is still with us, so rather than huddle on the main deck (under cover) watching hazy Brazilian TV we relax on our bunks with a good book – the perfect accompaniment to a lazy cruise down the Amazon. Christi is reading John Grisham, while I thoroughly enjoy the Dan Brown novel Deception Point.
The main meals are on deck 2 – hammock class (as opposed to deck 3, which is cabin class). There’s a generous buffet lunch of delicious roast chicken, rice, beans and salad. Later we treat ourselves to a few cold sodas and a few caramel sweets from the rudimentary onboard convenience store. The proprietor will even make you a hamburger, if you wish.
Our second major port of call is Codajas, where the madness along the dockside is, if anything, worse than ever. People and good are trying to get on and off at the same time, while hawkers attempt to peddle their wares to the captive audience. It’s all good fun. Tonight we enjoy a truly magnificent sunset over the café-au-lait colored waters of the Rio Solimoes while we eat another fine dinner in Monte’s restaurant. For once we’re hoping to arrive late tomorrow, as lazy days on the Amazon are just too much fun!
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart, a gut-wrenching, heart-wrenching, laugh-wrenching tale.
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