Group dynamics hit a tour low last night. Having ‘done’ Saint Louis yesterday no one feels inclined to return there today. We could just hang out at the Zebrabar camp ground, but most of us would prefer to continue exploring Senegal. It had taken a unanimous vote of approval from the group to make the changes to the itinerary that brought us to Saint Louis in the first place. Now a vocal minority of one has decided to block further amendments because she is unhappy with the lack of special treatment she has received during the trip. She argues to return to Saint Louis – not because she is enthralled with the city (it is after all full of children) – but because the alternative option is to visit Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj, one of the premier breeding grounds for birds in the world. Only an acknowledgement of the veto power she wields and a promise to be more considerate towards her, especially around her dietary requirements, elicits the necessary agreement to play nicely with the rest of the group.
We leave for Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj, therefore, with a combined sour taste in our mouths, but at least we are going. And it is a place that Adonis has never been to before so it will be an adventure for him too. Finding the place is fairly adventurous in itself as there are few signs and the roads are a pot-holed mes. Thank goodness PeeWee Herman is not driving because he is an expert at finding every hole. Adonis prefers to drive around them.
Although we’re visiting such a remote place, it’s well-known to die-hard bird watchers the world over and plenty of them are present because it is the pelican breeding season. The best way to explore the waterways that dominate the park is by pirogue. We hire two and there is a mad dash to secure seats in the pirogue that doesn’t include she who must be tolerated. I literally pull PeeWee Herman out of the right pirogue to create space for Christi and I. He looks crestfallen, but hey, taking one for the team is his job. There is a noticeable groan among the people in the wrong pirogue. The right pirogue zooms off amid happy, smiling faces. It’s not hard to guess who has the best experience in Parc National des Oiseaux du Djoudj.
There is an abundance of ducks, herons, cormorants and the like, but the most truly remarkable sight is the Great White pelican breeding grounds. I have never seen so many pelicans in one place before. The mature pelicans are yellow-billed, while those of a uniform darker color are immature. Our guide is very accommodating and unlike the wrong pirogue we don’t rush and we’re out on the water twice as long. In addition to the bird life we see several crocodiles, monitor lizards, and the always adorable warthogs. What an incredible experience.
Long slog back to our campsite, whereupon everyone not making dinner (that is, me and Louise) run to the bar. Christi and Thelma return early holding cold beers to at least provide some moral support. Louise and I are cooking spaghetti bolognaise; Christi tastes it and suggests adding more salt. She who must be tolerated expressly forbids salt in the food because of a health condition she may or may not have. As salt goes into the pot what no one realizes is that she who must be tolerated is hiding in the truck and spying on the cook group. Christi has the misfortune of entering the truck at the wrong moment and receiving the full wrath of she who must be tolerated. A pushing match ensues (my cook groups are cursed) before she who must be tolerated tumbles out of the truck. Go Christi! The spag bog at least goes over well with the rest of the group who are all disappointed to have missed the girl-on-girl fighting.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of broken hearts and broken test tubes.
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