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La Paz, our 50th day on the road, and not one I shall remember fondly. My complete and utter failure on Parinacota remains a tremendous disappointment. I suppose that is the nature of mountaineering. It’s an unpredictable business, although I … [Continue reading]
It feels as if we're becalmed in La Paz, a city that I have not warmed to at all. I’m still maudlin over my recent failure to climb Parinacota. I really thought I'd summit and I’m left to wonder was it me or was it my guide, Sergio? Was I not good … [Continue reading]
I cannot afford to dwell any longer on past failures because today begins the build up to our next big adventure (there’s no dawdling on this Year of Wonder). But before we finally escape the insidious clutches of La Paz for Santa Cruz, the largest … [Continue reading]
Noel Kempff Mercado National Park is an undiscovered gem. It’s not the easiest place to visit or the cheapest, but there will be abundant wildlife and virtually no tourists. Sounds like our kind of place. The southern section of the park is … [Continue reading]
The Itenez River forms a natural boundary with neighboring Brazil. And while NKMNP is about as remote as it gets in Bolivia, there are villages on the Brazilian side of the river. Fishing is a popular enterprise here and the Brazilian villagers … [Continue reading]
A night-time boat safari at NKMNP is much more productive than the day safaris... Thankfully this morning’s adventure on the river did not involve wrangling poachers, which gave Christi and I more time for animal spotting. I will tell you that … [Continue reading]
Highlight of the day: giant river otters... A full day on the river today and I believe the plan is to follow the Itenez River downstream to its tributary, the Paucerna, and then follow that river upstream until it plummets off the Huanchaca Plateau … [Continue reading]
Flor de Oro, originally a 5-star lodge, but now slowly deteriorating due to lack of maintenance, is cut out of the jungle and critters often wander through looking for food (tasty soursop is an abundant fruit around the place). During the early … [Continue reading]
This time we leave Santa Cruz from the city’s domestic El Trompillo airport in a comfortingly large and sturdy plane – my favorite. The flight to Sucre via Cochabamba takes 90 minutes and costs US$43; the bus, by contrast, winds its way tortuously … [Continue reading]
Christi and I stroll to the Cafe Gourmet Mirador in the foothills of Cerro Churuquella today for views over the historic colonial center of Sucre. The views are wonderful as is the freshly squeezed OJ and the chocolates we demolish while we … [Continue reading]
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