Aswan, Egypt, Day 290

Mummified sheep, Nubian Museum, Aswan, Egypt, Africa

Christi and I are the last to leave the Nile Story houseboat. In fact we are so popular that staff are sent to our room to give us a proper send off - or something like that. We are tossed - I mean we step gracefully - onto the dockside in Aswan, the … [Continue reading]

Abu Simbel, Day 291

The Great Temple of Abu Simbel at dawn, Egypt, Africa

Although we are in the heat of a Saharan summer the air-conditioner in our room at the Horus Hotel is so effective that I'm tucked into my three-season sleeping bag and in addition to my pajamas I'm also wearing a fleece. You may, quite reasonably … [Continue reading]

Visa hell and felucca fun, Day 292

Nile felucca with Elephantine Island in the background, Aswan, Egypt, Africa

The weekly ferry from Aswan (in Egypt) to Wadi Halfa (in Sudan) sails tomorrow. A first class cabin is being held for us, but before the manager of the Nile Ferry Company, Mr. Salah, will issue the tickets he says we need to have a Sudanese visa in … [Continue reading]

Aboard the MV Sinai, Day 293

The MV Sinai on Lake Nasser (Egypt - Sudan border), Africa

Christi and I are not sorry to see the back of the Horus Hotel in Aswan. I think  I caught a cold during our stay there (fortunately it was nothing worse than that). We pick up a few snacks for the ferry ride as we have no idea whether the food … [Continue reading]

Wadi Halfa, Sudan, Day 294

The port at Wadi Halfa, Sudan, Africa

It’s very pleasant to be back on the water and traveling with a purpose aboard a working vessel. We are fortunate to have an air-conditioner blasting out cold air and this mixes with hot air coming in through our open porthole to create a very … [Continue reading]

Northern Sudan, Day 295

Roadside mosque, Northern Sudan, Sudan, Africa

Mazar very kindly puts us up for the night in his Wadi Halfa compound in Northern Sudan. The privacy and security are delightful (one of the many things you have to be conscious about when traveling as a backpacker is personal security and the … [Continue reading]

The pyramids of Napata, Sudan, Day 296

The pyramids of Napata at Jebel Barkal, Karima, Sudan, Africa

I sleep reasonably well in the Sahara desert, staring up at the stars; Christi less so. She says she couldn't get comfortable. As Christi rolls up her sleeping bag she uncovers a nest of scorpions,  which just might explain her uncomfortable night. … [Continue reading]

Omdurman, Sudan, Day 297

A case of diminishing returns: selling ice in 45°C (113°F) heat, Omdurman souq, Sudan, Africa

Today Christi and I will spend most of our time in Omdurman, the largest city in Sudan, which lies on the western banks of the Nile River opposite the capital Khartoum. Omdurman is the center of commerce, while Khartoum is the cultural and industrial … [Continue reading]

Royal cemetery of Begrawiya, Day 298

Pyramids of Meroe (featuring the Northern Cemetery) at Begrawiya, Sudan, Africa

A visit to the ancient royal cemetery of Begrawiya (a.k.a Meroe) some 200 km north-east of Khartoum represents the fourth and final day of our program.  The car hire has certainly been useful for getting around, but it ain’t cheap so we're trying to … [Continue reading]

Where the Blue Nile meets the White Nile, Day 299

al-Mogran (The Confluence of the White Nile [left] and Blue Nile [right]), Khartoum, Sudan, Africa

Today Christi and I intend to explore Khartoum on our own and in this highly security-conscious country we are a little nervous of what to expect once we leave the safe confines of the Gobba hotel.  Since the temperatures tend to be cooler in the … [Continue reading]