San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Day 110

The Old Woman of San Telmo market, Buenos Aires, Argentina

  The thing to do on a Sunday in Buenos Aires (BA) is to visit the San Telmo market and general street party. And our seedy hostel is within walking distance of the bohemian barrio, so after a leisurely breakfast Christi and I stroll down there … [Continue reading]

La Recoleta cemetery, Buenos Aires, Day 111

La Recoleta cemetery, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Our main tourist activity for the day is a visit to La Recoleta cemetery - death as an art form.  Before the fun, though, Christi and I have chores to do.  And today is a big one: applying for Christi's visa so she enter Brazil.  The Brazilian … [Continue reading]

Plaza de Mayo – or home, Day 112

Presidential Guard, Casa Rosada, Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

  Christi and I had planned a busy day of sightseeing today beginning at Plaza de Mayo, but this was derailed almost immediately.  The staff at our useless hotel who said they could organize onward bus travel now insist that we have to purchase … [Continue reading]

La Boca, Buenos Aires, Day 113

The sultry tango, La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina

It’s our last full day in Buenos Aires and ironically this will be the day Christi and I finally do the city tour.  Before we do that, however, there are more chores to complete, including organizing accommodation for some of our upcoming … [Continue reading]

Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, Argentina, Day 115

Sunset, Esteros del Iberá wetlands, Colonia Carlos Pelligrini, Argentina

Colonia Carlos Pellegrini does not have an ATM so Christi and I stock up on cash before our 3-hour bus ride.  We also pay our fixer Graciela A$2230 for the bus to Pellegrini plus 4 nights' accommodation at the Rancho Ibera with full board and 4 … [Continue reading]

Buenos Aires to Mercedes, Day 114

Argentine flag, Buenos Aires

Up at 5 am, shower, pack and catch a taxi to Retiro bus station.  Neither Christi nor I are sad to leave the Garden House Hostel.  It’s only saving grace is that it’s cheap.  The staff is useless.  Buenos Aires is another matter, though.  The … [Continue reading]

Esteros del Ibera, Day 116

Yacare Caiman and friend, Esteros del Ibera, Argentina

After a lazy breakfast Christi and I amble down the country lanes of C.C. Pellegrini to the boat dock where our guide, Jorje, then zooms us off across the Esteros del Ibera in a speed-boat, the wind in our hair.  Wetlands are by their very nature a … [Continue reading]

Mosquitoes are evil bastards, Day 117

Capybara, Esteros del Ibera, Argentina

I hate mosquitoes.  I especially hate them as I lie in bed at night and they zoom past my ear taunting me.  I have to get up and hunt them down no matter how long it takes. Christi suffers in silence as we both endure a sleepless night.  We are … [Continue reading]

4×4 rescue, CC Pellegrini, Day 118

Marsh deer, Esteros del Ibera, Argentina

I’m not a happy camper today for several reasons.  First our final scheduled activity, horseback riding, has been abandoned due to the ongoing extreme weather conditions.  Second I'm enduring an itchy nightmare after last night's mosquito orgy at my … [Continue reading]

San Ignacio, Argentina, Day 119

Jungle-ravaged San Ignacio mission, Argentina

I'd like to think the overnight bus ride to San Ignacio will be the last Christi and I do in South America.  Admittedly it does save a night's accommodation, but the ride is invariably uncomfortable and you can't see the surrounding countryside or … [Continue reading]