Puerto Madryn to El Calafate, Day 90

Christi and I covered the 3,500 km (or greater than 2,200 miles) from Salta to Puerto Madryn by bus over four long night trips.  So rather than spend another 20 hours and some 1500 km (932 miles) on a bus to get to our next destination, El Calafate, … [Continue reading]

El Calafate to El Chalten, Day 91

Christi and I take an early morning bus to El Chalten.  It’s a spectacular 3-hour journey with stunning views of geologic up-faults, glacial lakes, and snow-capped mountains, plus guanacos, ostriches, and even a fox.  On arrival, we stop briefly at … [Continue reading]

Laguna de Los Tres hike, Day 92

Río de las Vueltas Valley, Laguna de Los Tres hike, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

  With the promise of good weather, Christi and I are up before dawn to catch a ride to El Pilar hostel some 17 km north of town.  The advantage of starting our hike to Laguna de Los Tres here is that it’s now a one-way 19 km trek, rather than a … [Continue reading]

Laguna Torre hike, Day 93

Cerro Solo, Laguna Torre trail, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

  I have a little gripe today.  I know it’s utterly ridiculous that someone on a year-long sabbatical dedicated to travel would dare complain, but I can't help it.  The internet has opened up a new world to travelers in terms of sharing … [Continue reading]

Perito Moreno Glacier, Day 94

Perito Moreno glacier, Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina

  Hiking in the northern section of Parque Nacional de los Glaciares was a great experience as was Rancho Grande and El Chalten.  Christi and I never did see the top of Cerro Torre though or make it to the base of Cerro Fitz Roy; maybe we'll … [Continue reading]

Lago Argentino, Day 95

Lago Argentino, near El Calafate, Argentina

  Christi and I continue the dance between Argentina and Chile today, which begins with a beautiful ride alongside the gorgeous Lago Argentino. It's a 5-hour bus ride from El Calafate south along route 40 before dipping across the border near … [Continue reading]

Puerto Natales, Chile, Day 96

Big Sky Country, Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile

  The start of our fourth month on the road. Christi and I begin it in easy fashion with a rest day, barely making the last call for breakfast before undertaking a brief exploration of Puerto Natales.  The waterfront overlooks Ultima Esperanza … [Continue reading]

Lago Grey glacier, Torres del Paine NP, Day 97

Lago Grey glacier, Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

   Our plan is to stay at the refugio Paine Grande for 2 nights (which will allow us to explore the Grey Glacier and the French Valley) and 1 night at refugio Chileno (for the sunrise over the Torres del Paine).  It’s our take on the classic ‘W’ … [Continue reading]

French Valley, Torres del Paine NP, Day 98

Hiking in the French Valley, Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

Christi and I shuffle around our freezing 6-bed dorm at 7 am trying not to disturb the other, still snoring, occupants as we prepare for our long hike (28 km / 17 miles) to the French Valley and back.  We leave the refugio at 8:15 am.  The first 2 … [Continue reading]

Torres del Paine National Park, Day 99

Crossing the Paine River, Torres del Paine NP, Argentina

It’s our turn to relax this morning as other dorm members scramble to prepare for their hikes.  The weather is certainly not cooperating, however.  It’s snowing and blowing a gale in Torres del Paine National Park.  I'm glad I'm not hiking 17 miles … [Continue reading]