Whereas Rabat is the administrative and political capital of Morocco, Casablanca is undeniably the country’s cultural and economic heartbeat. Having said that, Casablanca is not a tourist hotspot and until relatively recently it lacked an iconic landmark. Perhaps this is what inspired the late king, Hassan II, to build the gargantuan Hassan II mosque between 1980 and 1993. The mosque is located on a rocky promontory of reclaimed land overlooking the ocean northwest of the downtown area, echoing (according to the Lonely Planet) a verse from the Quran that states that God’s throne was built upon the water The statistics are just mind-boggling: the mosque can accommodate 25,000 worshippers inside and a further 80,000 in the surrounding courtyards and squares; the minaret reaches a staggering 210m in height, making it the tallest building in Morocco and the tallest minaret in the world. The Hassan II mosque is the third largest mosque in the world and dominates the skyline over the surrounding low-rise shantytowns. Again, according to our LP guide, the prayer hall is large enough to house Paris’ Notre Dame cathedral or Rome’s St. Peter’s basilica.
Naturally a building this size and one that is decorated with such exquisite tile work, wood carvings, and stucco moulding didn’t come cheap. The Hassan II mosque cost as much as US$800 million to build, raised largely from public subscription although the subscription was not voluntary. Critics argue that if the Moroccan people were forced to contribute so much money, then perhaps it should have been spent on the slums surrounding the mosque and the people who live there under desperate conditions. The criticism is more of a whisper than fully fledged anger as most Moroccans appear pleased with the mighty edifice, although maintaining such a magnificent building in the teeth of the Atlantic is an expensive business. This might explain why the Hassan II mosque is one of only two in the country that allows non-Muslims to visit – for a price. And it ain’t cheap: 120D (US$15) per person. Christi and I pass on the opportunity to explore within, although apparently the interior is the equal of the exterior. Part of the mosque’s floor is made of glass so worshippers can kneel directly over the sea. Unfortunately, this wonderful feature is mainly for royal use and is off-limits to visitors. Also an automated sliding roof opens to the heavens on special occasions. Thus the faithful of Casablanca can indeed contemplate God’s sky and ocean in accordance with king Hassan’s wishes.
We contemplate the meaning of all this at a nearby McDonald’s. Once Christi had seen the Golden Arches there was no stopping her. Clearly she has been brainwashed by this strange cult led by an enigmatic figure known only as Ronald. And on that note it’s time to leave Casablanca and Morocco. Tomorrow is a new day and there will be a new country to explore.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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