The Gran Sabana, part of Canaima National Park, includes some of the most unusual landscapes in the world, with rivers, waterfalls and gorges, deep and vast valleys, impenetrable jungles and savannahs that host large numbers and varieties of plant species, a diverse fauna and, of course, the tepuis. And it these features that Christi and I have marveled at over the last week or so. Today is the last day of our Roraima trek in the wonderful surroundings of the Gran Sabana. That is not necessarily a bad thing because tomorrow is Christmas and Christi and I are very much looking forward to a soft bed and, luxury of luxuries, a sit-down toilet.
A party atmosphere descended on the campsite last night – excitement that the hardest part of the hike was over and anticipation at the rapidly approaching festivities. The noise outside our tent plus the very real prospect of financial issues around payment for Roraima and Angel Falls keep me awake longer than normal. I awake early still and after a last breakfast begin hiking at 7:15 am. It is the hottest day we have had. The hiking, through undulating savanna, is not overly demanding (just as well because our legs are seizing up) and there is virtually no one else on the trail this early either from Tek River or Paraitepui. Life is grand in the Gran Sabana. Ricardo catches up with us at appropriate moments, but generally lets us plod along in splendid isolation. He’s like a caring parent giving us just enough freedom so that we don’t get into trouble! The last mile is more demanding than Christi and I remembered, but we finally make it back to Paraitepui and the trail head or in our case the trail finish.
We are surprised to see Keith and Dan there when we cross the finish line. Due to their demanding schedule they returned to Paraitepui last night (i.e. all the way from the summit of Roraima to the trailhead). They actually enjoyed dinner with us at Tek River and then hiked by headlamp and moonlight back to Paraitepui, arriving around 11 pm. Frustratingly for Keith and Dan, Miraye has yet to appear with the bikes and food they will need for the next segment of their fantastic journey. Christi and I are just pleased to have finished and are looking forward to a relaxing few days in luxury accommodation (fingers crossed). The news from Miraye is mixed: New Frontiers Adventures have still not been paid yet for the hike (expletive, expletive), while onward bus tickets to Porto Ordaz for December 26th are not on sale yet – and today is December 24th. Our luxury accommodation at Ya-Koo is confirmed, however. Our last act before returning to Santa Elena de Uairen is to dole out the tips. We give Ricardo US$40 and the same again for the porters. It is money we can ill afford, but money they deserve, although may be they were expecting more since no one smiles or says gracias.
The Ya-koo resort is rustic and purports to be eco-aware in practice this means no Internet, no in-room TV, no lunch (although breakfast and dinner is included in the US$120 rate), variable hot water and an inconvenient distance from town. It does offer a laundry service and blissfully, a real toilet. We enjoy getting cleaned up and equally their Christmas Eve dinner – a sumptuous roast pork dish. A perfect way to end our fantastic experience on Roraima (I’ve forgotten the rain already).
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart, a gut-wrenching, heart-wrenching, laugh-wrenching story.
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