Twenty people in a pirogue are not the ideal conditions for a safari along the Gambia River in search of hippos and crocodiles, but that’s the Dragoman way. Even before that, though, there’s a very nice sunrise over the river. The cost to the kitty is US$10 for the 90-minute boat ride and the services of a guide. In fact you have to pay for the guide whether you want one or not, although to be honest I’m pretty good ay distinguishing a crocodile and a hippo for myself.
Over the 90 minutes the Gambia River reveals little of its true secrets, although we do spot some hippos and a Nile crocodile, but no elephants or lions or leopards. If any of them remain in the park they are keeping a low profile today. There’s another warthog (or maybe its the same one from yesterday), a lone Nyala antelope, and a smattering of exotic birds (which Christi enjoys), but the safari generally offers slim pickings. Probably the best part of zooming up and down the Gambia River is the breeze, which relieves some of the ongoing oppressive heat.
Later Christi and I sit by the pool with Adonis and Sheldon Cooper who is the only other member of the group to actually commit to continuing overland into Mauritania with us and the enigmatic fixer, Ahmed the Finger. Adonis gives us some tips on the route Dragoman would have followed and what we might expect from Ahmed. Having Sheldon Cooper on board makes the trip cheaper and he can speak French. In theory this all to our advantage. In theory.
While Christi and Hu-man set about the chore of making dinner, I wander off to the watering hole in search of solitude and wildlife. Again, though, wildlife spotting is at a premium, which is made all the more difficult by the appearance of a noisy group of French tourists who don’t appear to grasp the fact that silence is advantageous when looking for wildlife. I leave in a huff.
Despite Christi’s concerns, dinner once again proves to be a delight (it’s potato curry), although she and Hu-man cook enough rice to feed 50 people let alone 20. Quickly clear up after dinner so Christi and I can get the full benefit of the air-conditioning in our room. We fall asleep in blissful comfort.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of broken hearts and broken test tubes.
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