Not being part of the Dragoman tour any longer is something of a relief, but Christi and I still do not get to enjoy the lazy morning in our comfortable hotel in Dakar that we had anticipated. Sheldon Cooper sees to that. He calls our room at 8.15 am asking if we had seen the note he left for us in reception suggesting we meet at 8 am this morning? Clearly not! We tumble into reception 15 minutes later bleary-eyed and barely washed. Now that Sheldon has decided to join our trip to Mauritania, he’s attempting to run the show his way. The fact that he can speak French, has a cell phone and has already made contact with Ahmed the Finger does unfortunately give him a significant edge. Still, he can’t afford to completely upset Christi and I because we’re paying 800 euros to his 400 euros. Being a smart-ass McKinsey consultant, Sheldon knows this and to compensate us for our unexpectedly early morning he brings us chocolate croissants from a nearby patisserie. Well played, Mr. Cooper. Mr. Cooper also knows the way to the Mauritanian embassy and Christi and I meekly follow him into a taxi.
Visa formalities are actually a breeze. Security is minimal, the staff are pleasant and Christi and I are quickly and efficiently relieved of US$80 each for our 3-month single entry visas (which will be available after 3.30 pm today. Too easy). At this point we bid Sheldon goodbye, although he insists we meet back at the hotel at 3 pm so that we can all go to the embassy together. It’s easier to agree than to come up with a different plan, but that still leaves most of the day to explore Dakar and conduct a few chores. Our chores include the usual practice of uploading photos to Picasa and tentatively planning more adventures in Africa. Dakar, at least the part in which we find ourselves, has some very pleasant patisseries, a legacy of being a former French colony. I hadn’t expected to eat such tasty croissants, while the chocolates are sublime works of art – the best we have eaten since those far of days in Bariloche, Argentina.
Sheldon Cooper is, of course waiting for Christi and I as we stumble into the hotel Al Baraka a few minutes late. We feel like naughty school children in front of the headmaster! We taxi to the Mauritanian embassy where our passports are returned to us without issue (always a nervous time) and we are now the proud owners of quite decorative Mauritanian visas – and not many people can say that.
Head out to dinner without our constant shadow, Sheldon, at the nearby Senegalese restaurant, Keur Ndeye. We tuck into some local dishes, including chicken in maafe (groundnut stew) and Tieboudienne (fish, rice, and tomato sauce) while listening to live kora music. At a separate table Adonis and Aphrodite are enjoying their own romantic dinner. As the tour ended Agatha Christie asked Aphrodite what the future held for her and the nomadic Adonis. Whatever Aphrodite thought, she didn’t share them with us nosy folks, but the truth proved to be a difficult period for both of them. Happily, though, the beautiful people have finally taken the plunge and are now engaged. So good luck for a long and blissful life together.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart, a gut-wrenching tale of broken hearts and broken test tubes.
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