Hamada the co-owner of the Canadian hostel in Cairo is desperate to organize our Egyptian adventures beyond the capital. Trouble is his prices are too high, especially considering he is catering to a backpacker clientele. Christi and I are toying with the idea of cruising down the Nile from Luxor to Aswan if we can find a bargain. And of course the rule of thumb is that the best deals are always found locally – in this case Luxor. If Hamada arranges something for us then he’s adding his commission onto the fees charged in Luxor. We pass on this and plan on finding a fixer in Luxor to organize a high-end cruise for a low-end price. In the meantime we do allow Hamada to organize a true backpacker trip for us out to the Bahariya oasis in Egypt’s Western desert (yes it’s another trip into the Sahara). The Bahariya oasis is the jumping off point for some quite amazing rock formations: the Black desert and the White desert. As an added thrill we also get to camp in the Sahara – again. Apparently there is no five-star hotel in this part of the Sahara desert (and certainly not a five-star hotel offering rooms at backpacker prices), but we are promised a tent this time. And for a little extra cold hard cash we get to go backpacker first class. We’re still taking a public bus from Cairo to the oasis, but thereafter the program is private: just us and the tour guide.
It’s a six-hour slog from Cairo to Bahariya on the bus and we arrive in the intense heat of the day. The local agent, Amir, who actually runs the trips immediately wants to change the program. This is the first excursion I’ve been on where the Arab tour guide wants to change something. And you can bet your bottom dollar it will not be to our advantage. It isn’t. Amir wants us to join another tour leaving for the desert immediately. After 6 hours on an uncomfortable bus the last thing I want is another long drive followed by a night under canvas. And even though we’ve paid premium prices for a private tour, Amir tries to argue that more people make for a better experience! Nothing doing pal. Reluctantly he agrees to honor the original program. And for the rest of the day this involves a tour of the oasis. Amir promises to send a local guide to show us around, only he doesn’t show. After 2 frustrating hours in reception I insist the staff call Amir. First he says the drivers’ mother was in a car accident and the driver had to go to the hospital. Later he says the driver did show up on time, but we were not at the hotel. What lies. When the tour does eventually take place, the atmosphere is quite unpleasant and Christi and I don’t really enjoy it. Some of the scenery is quite pretty, though, including the oasis itself, the obligatory camels, and the desert at sunset. I only hope tomorrow goes better, although I have my doubts.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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