Before Christi and I dice with death by exploring the many souqs of Marrakesh in search of potential souvenirs, we need to plan our onward travel. Our choice is to continue exploring Morocco by public transport or to join an organized tour. Public transport is cheap, slow, and the routes do not always coincide with our desired destinations. Tours are more expensive, more efficient, but involve other tourists and can be restrictive. A private tour would of course be ideal, but the associated comfort and flexibility comes with a hefty price tag.
There are plenty of tour agencies in Marrakesh offering 3-day, 2-night group tours into the Moroccan Sahara for 900D (US$110) per person departing daily. With so many hole-in-the-wall agencies offering such trips it is clear that all interested tourists will be bundled together into one group – and usually aboard the smallest vehicle possible (and in Morocco that’s saying something). All tours follow the exact same route: south-west through the High Atlas mountains, taking in the Todra and Dades Gorges, Ait Benhaddou, the Draa valley (origin of the Saadian dynasty of Moroccan kings, incidentally), and a night sleeping in the Sahara with a dawn camel safari thrown in before returning to Marrakesh. We don’t feel the need to spend another night sleeping in the Sahara or indulge in another uncomfortable camel ride (our memories from Mauritania and Mali are still fresh). We therefore talk to the owners of Hilali tours about an alternative 3-day 2-night private excursion. Actually conducting a business transaction with an Arab is not that simple. Arabs are good business people; they are thorough and very precise. This means we have to establish our exact itinerary ahead of time and stick to it – even if we find something more interesting to see or do during the tour. These wily Arabs calculate mileage and petrol costs, car rental fees, driver hire, as well as food and accommodation. I can see the wheels turning in the mind of the owner, no doubt calculating a monster profit margin. ‘5600D [US$700]’ he yells. That pretty much ends the conversation before it has even begun and both Christi and I get up to leave. Hands dart out from everywhere urging us to sit – tea is offered. The word ‘friends’ is suddenly added to the conversation and the negotiations begin in earnest.
Negotiating can be fun if both parties are willing to compromise – and we do. 3300D is the magic number, which is still more than Christi and I wanted to pay, but is no doubt less than Hilali tours were hoping for. And the driver / guide must speak English I add before shaking hands on the deal. The itinerary is hastily written up and the contract signed. We leave tomorrow.
With the time remaining to us we dive into the souqs reluctant to be parted from anymore cash, despite the bewildering array of tourist trinkets that are for sale: from tajine pots to Moroccan slippers and carpets to paintings, perfume, spices, bowls, light shades, hats, wicker baskets, olives, dried fruit, handbags, and wood carvings to name but a few. Plus there are the smooth sales pitches. It ‘s wise not to listen too closely otherwise their hypnotic voices will soon have you separated from your money. And while that souvenir may look good in Morocco, you might be scratching your head a little when you get it back home!
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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