There’s a lot to see in Marrakesh and although Christi and I have now lost the ability to get up early we scuttle through the medina by mid-morning heading north of Djemma el-Fna to a cluster of three tourist attractions. The most impressive of these is the Ali ben Youssef medersa. The first challenge we face is actually finding the tourist sites. The alleys are poorly marked and it is easy to get disoriented in the endless souqs that cover the medina.
Despite the narrowness of the alleyways down which we trot, there is a plague of suicidal moped drivers zooming along the twisting, windy paths. They honk noisily at locals and tourists alike urging them out-of-the-way and leaving in their wake a plume of pollution that lingers menacingly.
Finally, after a few wrong turns we reach the 12th century Ali ben Youssef mosque which is closed to us non-believers, but adjacent to the mosque is the Ali ben Youssef Medersa (a.k.a. Ben Youssef Madrasa). This Koranic school dates to the 14th century and at one point was a major seat of learning in Marrakesh. Now the medersa is open to the public who come to marvel at the beautifully intricate stucco, cedar, and marble designs. The geometric patterns are exquisite, demanding to be photographed. We spend ages finding new designs, different angles, and ever-changing light to enthrall us. The main entrance of the medersa opens up into a courtyard with a central pool. To the sides are pillared archways. The second level is full of study rooms that overlook the courtyard and the exterior walls facing the square are a riot of stucco patterns. Absolutely amazing.
Outside the medersa a Berber woman selling silver bracelets pursues us with reckless abandon. She is dressed from head to toe in black, aside from her coal black eyes. Christi weakens and buys several trinkets, but I also persuade the Berber woman to let me photograph her. It’s a rare opportunity to photograph these women and I get one shot.
The 60D (US$8) ticket for the medersa also gives us access to two other tourist attractions in the area, the second of which is the Qoubba Almoravide. This is the oldest building in Marrakesh dating to the 12th century and is a classic example of Almoravid (an early Berber dynasty)architecture. Qoubba roughly translated means ‘dome’ and it is the decoration inside the dome that is most appealing. It is believed that this building was the ablutions area for the Ali Ben Youssef mosque. Last on our list of places to visit is the museum of Marrakesh located in the beautifully restored Dar Mnebhi palace. The palace itself is a good example of classical Andalusian architecture. Yet again there is a beautiful central courtyard with fountains, alcoves, beautiful geometric patterned tile work and elegant ceiling carvings. The museum holds exhibits of both modern and traditional Moroccan art, including an excellent series of photographs depicting Berber and Moroccan life during the 19th and 20th centuries. Moroccan art and architecture is simply superb.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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