Christi and I stumble out of bed at 8:30 am and enjoy a complimentary breakfast of cereal, fresh juices and all manner of Colombian delicacies at the Hotel de la Opera. I could seriously get used to this lifestyle – if someone else was paying!
Despite dire weather predictions it’s another nice day in Bogota. As we walk around the downtown area, the vibe is very upbeat. The people seem confident and they dress in chic, elegant clothing. Bogota reminds me of a European city aside from the graffiti which is everywhere. The only city I’ve visited which had comparable levels of graffiti is Berlin – and that was before the wall came down. Bogota is very different from the derelict cocaine-snorting capital I’d been expecting. Our first destination is the Museo del Oro, the gold museum. The museum is truly stunning and, for once, understandable, as descriptions of the exhibits are provided in English as well as Spanish. There is even an audio guide in English. Sheer bliss for us language-challenged travelers. The workmanship on display is incredible. Each area of ancient Colombia produced lightly different motifs and worked the gold differently (colors, alloys, matt vs. gloss finishes etc.). Some of my favorite exhibits in the Museo del Oro are the golden sea-snail shell, the ancient face of Tierradentro, and the most exquisite of all, the Muisca raft. Fantastic stuff.
The weather remains fine as we return to La Candelaria. Christi is itching to try out some of the local cuisine and we begin at a Bogota classic – La Puerta Falsa, established in 1816. It’s a cozy little nook and as with everything else about Bogota so far, the people are very friendly. We begin with a chocolate complete, which comprises a mug of hot chocolate into which you place a slab of fresh cheese (or not!). It’s a Colombian tradition that Christi embraces immediately. I’m less thrilled, although I do eventually pollute my hot chocolate with the noxious substance. By the time you reach the bottom of the mug, most of the cheese is gone – and what’s left has a delicious chocolate flavor – at least that’s what Christi says. We do both agree, though, that the tamale we share (corn, rice, chicken and veg) is de-licious.
Next up is the Museo Botero, which showcases the artistic talents of Medellin-born artist and sculptor Fernando Botero. He specializes in all thing fat, although none of his works are gross-out flab, but rather larger than life characters. Indeed his many paintings of large naked ladies are actually quite erotic. He has even painted his version of a fat Mona Lisa. And not only is this museum free, but in other galleries in this converted Colonial building are painting by a host of World famous artists including Picasso, Renoir, and Chagall. Bogota is incredible. We return to our hotel just as a massive thunderstorm is unleashed on Bogota, which really doesn’t bother me as I’m relaxing in the hotel spa!
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching, heart-wrenching, laugh-wrenching tale.
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