San Pedro (Chile) to Salta (Argentina), Day 68

It seems that many backpackers are attempting to escape the expensive, yet seductive, embrace of San Pedro de Atacama for Salta today and tickets are hard to come by. Christi and I are lucky to get two of the last four tickets on the Pullman company service departing at 8 am (or whenever the bus driver feels so inclined). The bus eventually departs from the waste ground behind the central plaza of San Pedro.

We basically repeat the same journey that brought us to San Pedro de Atacama from Bolivia, which means we have to negotiate Chilean border formalities again. These are noticeably more lax now that we’re leaving the country. Instead of taking the road north at this point, though, we turn south. In our case always to the south. We retain glimpses of the magnificent Eduardo Abaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve (particularly Laguna Blanca) for a while, but then the comfy seats, the smooth road (a blessing after Southwest Bolivia), free food, and endless movies distract us. Although we have officially left Chile, we continue to drive through Chilean desert for a few hours before we reach Argentina. And boy are those Argentinean border officials apathetic. It takes hours for the lazy sods to admit us.

We arrive in Salta in darkness 11 hours after leaving San Pedro de Atacama. Add in the fact that Argentina is one hour ahead of Chile and you’d be forgiven for thinking that this small town would be winding down for the night. Not a bit of it! The party is just getting started. And having prized my sweaty butt away from the tenacious grip of the Pullman seat, I’m eager to join in. We head for the main square, Plaza 9 de Julio, which is absolutely buzzing with people eating and drinking at outdoor restaurants. The square also features the wonderful Iglesia Catedral de Salta, which stands out because it’s bright pink (even at night). There’s also the interesting juxtaposition of the 19th century baroque cathedral with the 21st century architecture next door.