Arequipa to Puno, Day 40

MV Yavari, Puno, Peru

Another early start, although our Cruz del Sur bus is, horror of horrors, late leaving Arequipa.  We largely retrace our steps of yesterday across the beautiful golden brown altiplano (beautiful that is aside from all the damned litter – come on … [Continue reading]

Uros Islands, Lake Titicaca, Day 41

Tortora reed boat, Uros Islands, Lake Titicaca, Peru

Puno sits on the shores of Lake Titicaca at an elevation of 12,500 feet.  A short boat ride from town are the Uros Islands.  Originally inhabited by the Uros people, this indigenous group has now interbred heavily with the Aymara (both of which were … [Continue reading]

Copacabana and Lake Titicaca, Day 42

Copacabana, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia

It's a new country (Bolivia) and a new town (Copacabana) today... The 2-hour drive beside the sapphire-blue waters of Lake Titicaca to the Peruvian border town of Yunguyo is simply stunning.  And much like at the Ecuador-Peru border there is a huge … [Continue reading]

Our Lady of Copacabana, Day 43

Ceiling detail, basilica of Our Lady of Copacabana, Bolivia

  Our Lady of Copacabana is the patron saint of Bolivia... Paradise was actually a bit chilly and a bit loud last night.  We could have done with one of those hairless dogs from Trujillo, but at least we had the modern equivalent: a hot water … [Continue reading]

Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Day 44

Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca, Bolivia, South America

According to Inca mythology, Isla del Sol is the birthplace of Manco Capac (son of Viracocha, the creator god) and the first Inca.  It is believed that  Manco Capac spontaneously emerged from a prominent crag in a large sandstone outcrop in the … [Continue reading]

Copacabana to La Paz, Day 45

The bus to La Paz, Bolivia

Our hotel in Copacabana has only one drawback, the utilities can be intermittent.  We lost electrical power for the second time during our stay last night and it has yet to return.  The water is out also.  I improvise quite wonderfully regarding the … [Continue reading]

Bolivian Andes, Day 46

Mt. Sajama, highest peak in Bolivian Andes

  Spend the morning wandering around central La Paz, alternately trying to catch a flavor of the city and then my breath.  In addition to its spectacular scenery, Bolivia has the highest percentage of indigenous people of any South American … [Continue reading]

Mt Chacaltaya, Day 47

Mt. Chacaltaya (near La Paz), Bolivia

  Andean Summits have insisted that I do more high altitude acclimatization before my summit attempt on Parinacota.  They recommend hiking the last few thousand feet of Mt Chacaltaya, another major peak near La Paz.  We hire a taxi which embarks … [Continue reading]

Sajama National Park, Day 48

Parinacota (left) and Pomerape (right), Sajama National Park, Bolivia

Everything for the expedition fits neatly into Sergio’s decrepit Landcruiser, including our cook, Claudio.  It’s another awkward drive up and out of La Paz before we turn south and west towards Sajama National Park.  The park, which lies on the … [Continue reading]

Summit day, Mt Parinacota, Day 49

Parinacota on summit day, Sajama National Park, Bolivia

  Sleep fitfully until 2 am.  Summit day is here. Miraculously the wind dropped and it’s a perfect night: a billion stars in a silent night sky.  Do a final carbo-load and then Sergio and I set off into the darkness, our headlamps providing the … [Continue reading]