Northern Sudan, Day 295

Mazar very kindly puts us up for the night in his Wadi Halfa compound in Northern Sudan. The privacy and security are delightful (one of the many things you have to be conscious about when traveling as a backpacker is personal security and the security of your possessions. Expensive hotels and private residences alleviates that underlying tension - at least temporarily). Unlike the fancy hotel we … [Read more...]

The pyramids of Napata, Sudan, Day 296

I sleep reasonably well in the Sahara desert, staring up at the stars; Christi less so. She says she couldn't get comfortable. As Christi rolls up her sleeping bag she uncovers a nest of scorpions,  which just might explain her uncomfortable night. Damn this desert is dangerous. Abdul, who slept soundly in the back of the Land Cruiser, makes breakfast then it’s back to Jebel Barkal for morning … [Read more...]

Omdurman, Sudan, Day 297

Today Christi and I will spend most of our time in Omdurman, the largest city in Sudan, which lies on the western banks of the Nile River opposite the capital Khartoum. Omdurman is the center of commerce, while Khartoum is the cultural and industrial heart of the country. I'm not sure if a camel market is considered high stakes commerce, but our purpose for visiting it is actually to see some of … [Read more...]

Royal cemetery of Begrawiya, Day 298

A visit to the ancient royal cemetery of Begrawiya (a.k.a Meroe) some 200 km north-east of Khartoum represents the fourth and final day of our program.  The car hire has certainly been useful for getting around, but it ain’t cheap so we're trying to maximize our activities.  Abdul, our driver, meets us at 8 am and off we go - straight into rush hour traffic. Yes even in Khartoum. And conditions … [Read more...]

Where the Blue Nile meets the White Nile, Day 299

Today Christi and I intend to explore Khartoum on our own and in this highly security-conscious country we are a little nervous of what to expect once we leave the safe confines of the Gobba hotel.  Since the temperatures tend to be cooler in the morning, we are up and out early.  With the aid of some primitive maps and the benefit of having driven around Khartoum for the last few days we have a … [Read more...]