Bab Bou Jeloud, Fes, Day 255

The riad Khouloud does at least provide a free breakfast and Christi and I take full advantage. Our plan today is to explore the medina and we ask Saleem, the riad manager, for directions through the market to the main gate, Bab Bou Jeloud. The manager shakes his head, a knowing smile creeping around his mouth. 'Impossible,' he says. The medina has no direction. You just have to know your way … [Read more...]

Chouara tanneries, Fes, Day 256

Christi is feeling truly awful today:  she's nauseous and has a low-grade fever.  She can’t bear to eat, drink, or even get out of bed, although she stubbornly refuses any medication from her own traveling pharmacy (aside from Tylenol) or a visit to the local hospital. Which just goes to show that health care professionals really do make the worst patients. Bless her, though, she does insist I … [Read more...]

Fes el Bali, Day 257

Christi is feeling marginally better today so Saleem, the manager of the riad in which we are staying, organizes a tour of Fes el Bali (Fes's old medina) for us with the one-armed guide, Abdullah.  Interestingly, Saleem has not insisted on increasing our room rate from the introductory figure of 500D to the higher rate of 850D that he insists our room is worth. I'm sure it's merely a coincidence … [Read more...]

Meknes, Morocco, Day 258

Although Christi remains tired and poorly, she still wants to explore. And today we take the train to nearby Meknes, another Moroccan city with an ancient medina and square. Although founded in the 9th century, Meknes did not rise to prominence until the 17th century when the infamous Moulay Ismail became sultan of Morocco and chose Meknes as his capital. Ismail the Bloodthirsty was a warrior king … [Read more...]

Volubilis, Morocco, Day 259

It's a shame that Christi continues to feel under the weather because Morocco and its cuisine was supposed to be a highlight of her Year of Wonder. She continues to drag her aching body around Morocco, though, and today it's the Roman ruins of Volubilis. The site is 33 km north of Meknes, which means getting there will be a little complicated. In the end we take the train from Fes back to Meknes … [Read more...]