Colonia Carlos Pellegrini, Argentina, Day 115

Colonia Carlos Pellegrini does not have an ATM so Christi and I stock up on cash before our 3-hour bus ride.  We also pay our fixer Graciela A$2230 for the bus to Pellegrini plus 4 nights' accommodation at the Rancho Ibera with full board and 4 activities (a 2-hour boat ride; a 3-hour boat ride; a night-time walking tour; and a horseback excursion).  This works out to be US$150 per day for 3 … [Read more...]

Esteros del Ibera, Day 116

After a lazy breakfast Christi and I amble down the country lanes of C.C. Pellegrini to the boat dock where our guide, Jorje, then zooms us off across the Esteros del Ibera in a speed-boat, the wind in our hair.  Wetlands are by their very nature a magnet for evil, nasty, biting bugs, but the good news is the bastards can't keep up with the speed boat - yippee!  It is also cooler today, so my … [Read more...]

Mosquitoes are evil bastards, Day 117

I hate mosquitoes.  I especially hate them as I lie in bed at night and they zoom past my ear taunting me.  I have to get up and hunt them down no matter how long it takes. Christi suffers in silence as we both endure a sleepless night.  We are awoken just after dawn by a tremendous clap of thunder that shakes the hotel as the rain sweeps in again.  The rain clatters the roof so hard it reminds me … [Read more...]

4×4 rescue, CC Pellegrini, Day 118

I’m not a happy camper today for several reasons.  First our final scheduled activity, horseback riding, has been abandoned due to the ongoing extreme weather conditions.  Second I'm enduring an itchy nightmare after last night's mosquito orgy at my expense, and third the service at the 'luxury' Rancho Ibera continues to be lackluster to say the least.  For all these reasons I suggest to Christi … [Read more...]

San Ignacio, Argentina, Day 119

I'd like to think the overnight bus ride to San Ignacio will be the last Christi and I do in South America.  Admittedly it does save a night's accommodation, but the ride is invariably uncomfortable and you can't see the surrounding countryside or have much in the way of interaction with the locals - arguably the essence of backpacking.  This is lost if you're snoring the night away on a moving … [Read more...]