Before Christi and I embark upon a long overnight ride to Bariloche aboard our luxury Andesmar bus, we have time to explore the central market – well we’ve missed all those unusual body parts. And the market does not disappoint: whole goats, whole pigs, brains, intestines, tongues – not to mention free-range snails that continually escape their container in a slimy bid for freedom. At least the … [Read more...]
Chasing Bariloche, Day 81
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No time for gentle introductions today. Christi and I are in a race against time... The hotel calls a cab to take us to the bus station. It arrives at 8.45 pm – the same time our bus is scheduled to depart. We jump in and slam the doors closed, provoking howls of complaint from the taxi driver. We apologize, but the driver is unsympathetic to our need for speed. Unused to sprinting, … [Read more...]
Lake Gutierrez, Day 82
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Lake Gutierrez is sublime, but before that... Rapa Nui is not the only artisanal chocolatier in town, so today Christi and I have brunch at another den of chocolate sin, Mamuschka. Christi even finds another dog to pet (there's no shortage of them in South America), although this time it costs a buck to play with a St. Bernard. Bariloche has a very up market alpine feel – the Aspen of … [Read more...]
Lake District, Day 83
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It’s wet and windy as Christi and I embark upon our tour of the Lake District. We're doing the Seven Lakes tour (Nahuel Huapi, Espejo, Correntoso, Traful, Falkner, Villarino, and Hermoso). Our guide, Alfonso, is an interesting fellow: he’s middle-aged with dyed black shoulder length hair tied back into a ponytail. Although he can speak English, he insists upon conducting the tour in Spanish … [Read more...]
Rapa Nui Chocolatiers, Bariloche, Day 84
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Christi and I had planned to do the Circuito Chico bus tour today: a 60 km loop to the west of Bariloche that showcases the most spectacular of the snow-capped scenery at the southern end of Lake Nahuel Huapi. But the thought of another bus tour so soon after yesterday’s slog is not appealing. Currently the weather is alternating between miserable and beautiful, so we may be making a big mistake … [Read more...]
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