Damn our bed at the Grand Hotel de France is comfortable. So much so in fact that despite our limited time in Tunis, neither Christi nor I have much inclination to get up. When we do finally surface we have to reassess our plans for the day. Out goes a visit to the ruins of Carthage, which lie in the suburbs of present day Tunis. It was the Carthaginian general, Hannibal, if you recall, who famously took elephants over the Alps to attack Northern Italy and the Roman Empire in 219 BC.
Our goal for today is rather more modest: a visit to the cliff top village of Sidi Bou Said, some 20 km east of Tunis, which we achieve without the use of elephants. Instead, we let the train take the strain, although we board the TGM commuter train a little warily after our unpleasant experience on the metro yesterday. Fortunately, the atmosphere is much more relaxed and we enjoy an easy 35-minute ride alongside Lake Tunis and through the suburb of Carthage (which has 6 stations, including Carthage Hannibal), before reaching the scenic splendor of Sidi Bou Said.
Overlooking the beautiful aquamarine waters of the Mediterranean Sea from its perch on an escarpment, Sidi Bou Said appears to be a mixture of small village with a traditional lifestyle and a rich private retreat for Tunis’s wealthy commuters. Superimposed on this is the tourist industry and while we were exploring wave after wave of tourist buses flooded the village with nationalities the world over. On the one hand it’s nice to be so cosseted: no concerns other than what souvenirs to buy or what clothes to wear. On the other, the tourists are herded and controlled like any other merchandise. Retail opportunities are of course boundless, bright, and colorful, but so obviously tourist kitsch that we resist the temptation to buy anything easily.
Much like Chefchaouen, Sidi Bou Said is largely painted in a palette of cerulean blue and white. And much like Chefchaouen, Sidi Bou Said is clean and well maintained (adding to it’s eye-catching appeal), while the abundant bougainvillea gives the place an extra splash of color. It’s no surprise Sidi Bou Said is so popular. Christi and I get off the beaten track and explore some of the back streets and these are equally pretty, especially the intricately designed doors. Eat a very expensive late lunch at Cafe Sidi Chebaane, which has spectacular views overlooking Sidi Bou Said harbor. The harbour is packed with pleasure boats and beyond that are the exquisite aquamarine waters of the Mediterranean Sea. After a lazy lunch we amble back to the train station. Luckily there is a train getting ready to leave and we we hop aboard for the short journey back to town. Our room at the Grand Hotel de France may not be quite so aesthetically appealing as Sidi Bou Said, but it has the same warm and welcoming feel – and that shower is divine. This is the first time Christi and I have been truly clean since we arrived in Africa almost 3 months ago.
Blog post by Roderick Phillips, author of Weary Heart – a gut-wrenching tale of love and test tubes.
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