Tumbes to Trujillo, Day 20

Freedom monument, Plaza de Armas, Trujillo, Peru

A long day's journey into night... There’s an overnight bus to Trujillo leaving at 6 pm.  Although we don’t have good feelings about Tumbes, our LP guide warns against overnight bus journeys because of the frequency of fatal accidents (as drivers … [Continue reading]

Moche and Chimu civilizations, Trujillo, Day 21

Mural of the Moche deity Ayapec (Decapitator), Temple of the Moon, Trujillo, Peru

A little bit of culture today... The remains of two important pre-Columbian cultures, the Moche (who flourished between 100 – 800 AD) and their descendants, the Chimu (who were eventually conquered by the Incas  around 1470 AD) are located in the … [Continue reading]

Riding the Cruz del Sur bus from Trujillo to Lima, Day 22

Hairless dog, Trujillo, Peru

Luxury travel aboard the Cruz del Sur bus line... South America has a very extensive public transport network (typically buses and planes) which makes travel around the continent relatively easy.  Of course the quality varies tremendously, … [Continue reading]

Visa hell in Lima Day 23

Traditionally dressed Quechua girl, Peru

Our sole purpose for being in Lima is to secure Christi a visa for Bolivia.  However, the United Sates and Bolivia are currently engaged in a childish spat over visitor requirements.  The US imposed an expensive ($135) tourist visa fee to deter … [Continue reading]

Lima to Cusco, Day 24

Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru

A simple 60-minute flight from Lima to Cusco vs. a tortuous 20-hour bus ride through the mountains?  I’m all for exploring a country by ground transport, but honestly, this is another no-brainer. Cusco is the hub of all things Inca, as well as … [Continue reading]

Peruvian cultural festival in Cusco, Day 25

Cultural festival, Cusco, Peru

A Peruvian cultural festival takes over the Plaza de Armas today... Not since the Galapagos Islands have we encountered as many tourists as we find in Cusco.  And many of them are American.  That isn’t a bad thing, but from personal experience you … [Continue reading]

The Sacred Valley of the Incas, Day 26

Inca Citadel, Pisaq, Sacred Valley, Peru

  We could spend several days exploring the Sacred Valley of the Incas, but with an arduous trek along the Inca Trail in the offing we reluctantly limit ourselves to a one-day highlights tour.  At the height of the Inca Empire the Sacred … [Continue reading]

Santo Domingo cathedral, Cusco, Day 27

Santo Domingo cathedral, Cusco, Peru

Christi’s feeling a little ‘soroche’ today (where’s the Diamox?), so we have a very relaxing morning – or at least as much as is possible considering the cleaning staff like to meet outside our room at 6:30am to chat.  Once we surface, we have money … [Continue reading]

Saqsaywaman, Cusco, Day 28

Sexy alpaca (maybe) at The Inca site of Saqsaywaman, Cusco, Peru

Christi’s still not feeling that great and much prefers the idea of reading and checking out the latest gossip on Facebook to exploring more local Inca ruins.  Indeed, she warns me that I’ll be Inca’d out before we even reach Machu Picchu.  Perhaps, … [Continue reading]

The clash of modern and traditional Cusco, Day 29

Charity rock concert, Cusco, Peru

Today we experience the clash of modern and traditional Cusco.  We begin by wandering along the back streets of Cusco – just for the hell of it.  It’s a hot lazy morning and we’re delighted to find a hole-in-the-wall joint selling freshly-squeezed … [Continue reading]